The new dining room is more open and airy in a modern Japanese farmhouse mood blended with Scandinavian simplicity. It’s fancy stuff - some nigiri comes topped in fairy-delicate flakes of edible gold. He expanded the sushi bar for more seating and a larger chef workspace, all the better to savor nigiri delicacies such as sustainable farm-raised Kindai chu toro fatty tuna ($11), Tahitian maguro ($8), New Zealand king salmon ($7) and Grecian black snapper ($7). It’s wonderful to see Rand back behind his sushi counter, slicing and arranging pristine fish sourced from Japanese fish markets including the renowned Tsukiji/Toyosu. The new Kosho reopened this past October with a redesign, updated menu and a glittering crown as the best Japanese restaurant in Sonoma County. Instead, Rand somehow rallied the energy to rebuild, stripping the space down to the studs and cobbling together finances to bring everything back better than ever.
Most chefs would have walked away upon losing their dream after only four months and facing a future with no flood insurance. Kosho chef-owner Jake Rand had just opened his doors the previous October, after expensively renovating the space and investing an untold fortune in exquisite Japanese seafood that now, quite literally, was swimming away in the massive deluge. 27, as its building in Sebastopol’s Barlow was flooded chest-high by the storm-wrecked Laguna de Santa Rosa nearby. But only a month after my three-star review was printed in this newspaper, I was reporting - so sadly - that Kosho had closed, literally overnight on Feb. When I wrote glowingly about Kosho just 13 months ago, I had no idea I’d be writing about it again so soon.
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